I have long been a supporter of the London Wine Fair (LWF), previously known as the London International Wine Fair, although it lost the 'International' tag several years ago as ProWein cemented its domination. However, my visit to LWF on its first day this year left me in little doubt that the event is something of a ghost. Having just returned from a most successful food symposium and Gourmand Awards ceremony in Umeå, Sweden, I was staggered to discover the depths to which the once great LWF has sunk. There was quite some delay before I could gain admission with the QR code I had been sent, with the reception staff demanding payment, even though my media accreditation should have given me free access. Once in the building, I soon realized that the event was seriously undersold. A colleague who is a winery owner and restaurateur, having booked a few days prior to the event and paid £45 (yes £45) took one look at the hall, and asked where the rest of the event was. The 'Wines Unearthed' zone on the gallery looked bleaker than the brutalist suburban landscape of a communist state industrial town.